Pinking device



Jan. 3, 1939. v, SIGQDA 2,142,685

PINKING DEVICE Filed sept.. 2. 1937 s sheets-sheet 1 may/j 'ma-six INVENTOR 3/ Y I//c 7016.] .5T/600A ATTORNEY Patenten. 3, 1939 ,UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Sew g Attachment' Corporation, -New York, N. Y., acorporation of New York Application september z, 1937, seria1N0..1sz,111

This invention relates to pinking devices, more rier' stationary in the position selected when it particularly to pinking devices that may be used in connection with industrial Y sewing machines for pinking the edges of work during the Operation in which the work is stitched or sewed by the sewing machine.

The invention has for an important object the- L provision of a construction of .means whereby at anism and method of producing an undulating.

pinked edge on the fabric as it is progressively moved or fed in a rectilinear path, in which the pinking cutter rotates in a plane which is parallel to the plane of the fabric.

Another object of the invention is the provision of a device of the character referred to, so devised and arranged that I may employv therein as an efiicient bottom pinking cutter the general type of :dat circularly closed horizontally rotatable-pinking ring heretofore invented by me and a form of which is disclosed in my application Serial Number 45,787, led October 19, 1935.

In the embodiments of my invention as herein shown, for simplicity, ease of operation and reliability,.the ring cutter is eccentric-.ally mounted` for rotary operation in a carrier plate which is itself mounted for rotary movement wherebythe rotation of said plate will change the position of the point of pinking occurrence in relation to the line of stitching.

A further object of the invention is the provi-vf.: sion of a form of construction whereby throng` the rotation of Ithe carrier plate, the eccentrically mounted pinking cutter, when simultaneously rotated about its own axis, will produce an undulated or wavy pinked edge on the goods.

Two examples constituting practical embodiments oi: my invention are illustrated in the accompanying drawings. In one example, provision 'is made for manually rotating or adjusting the carrier and for Vlocking the same stationary in theposition desired, preparatory to operating. the pinking cutter for pinking the work.

In the other example, provision is made for independently and simultaneously rotating the carrier and'cutter when it is desired to produce undulating pinking; and further i'or locking the cardesired to, operate the cutter alone.

Other objects will appear hereinafter. The invention consists in the construction, combination and relative arrangement of parts here- 5 inafter described and claimed.

The invention will be best understood by reference to the accompanying drawings, forming a. part of this specication, and in which:

Fig. l is a top plan view of a pinking device 10 made in accordance with my invention and shown as provided vwith manually operated means for adjusting the pinking ring carrier;

- Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional' view taken on the line 2-2 of Figi 1; y 15 Fig. 3 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 3--3 of Fig. 1; l

Fig. 4y is another top plan view of the pinking device, this view showing the same as it appears when equipped with power operated means for 20 driving lthe carrier to produce undulating pinking;

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a partial plan and sectional view, showing the driving mechanism including the clutches 25 for .simultaneously operating the pinking ring and its carrier;

Fig. '7 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 1--1 of Fig. 4 and Fig. 8 is a fra entary view of a piece of fabric, 30

showing the samepinkd with an undulating edge.

Referring iirstto Figs. 1, 2 and 3, wherein I have shown an embodiment of the invention for purposes of illustration, I0 denotes a. base plate which is applied to the cloth plate Il or other 35.

. i8 of which has turning iit in a boss or bearing I 9 provided for the purpose on thebase plate. 45 Fitted eccentricallyin'the hubY I8 for rotaf'y move- I, ment is a shaft l20, its upper end-being vf ormed with or secured to, apawl-carrying discy 2| arranged to rotate in an. eccentrically located circular recess 22 provided in the top of the carrier- 50 I1. The recess 22 is of a size to provide an annular space between-the outer periphery o'f the pawlcarrying disc 2 I 'and the outer wall 2301i' the recess.- 'Ihis spaceprovides a raceway 24 in which upon roller bearings 25er other suitable anti-friction means is mounted the pinking ring 28 with its top or upwardly facing pinking teeth 21. As

clearly shown in Fig. 1 the pawl-carrying disc and operating rock shaft 28 of the sewing machine.

'Ihis rock shaft is operated in the usual way from an eccentric on the main shaft (not shown) through links 30 and 8|. The movement of the rock shaft is transmitted through crank 32, feed bar 33, feed arm 34 and shaft 28 to the pawl-carrying disc 2| which is thereby given a rotary oscillating motion. In the present embodiment,.the pinking ring has around its inner periphery an -upstanding flange 85; and the disc is provided with pivoted pawls 38 in openings 31, which pawls have outer hooked ends 38 for interengaging with the flange 35. When the disc is moved in the direction of the arrow 28, the flange is gripped by the pawls and the pinking ring is moved, and springs 38 associated with the pawls are compressed. On the reverse movement of the disc the spring-urged pawls slip on the flange, and in this connection itis to be observed that a spring-urged pawl 48 pivoted to a check plate` 4| positively prevents any reverse movement ofthe pinking ring. By this arrangement, it will be appreciated. that the usual to and fro movement of the feed mechanism of the sewing machine may be used to drive the pinking ringintermittently.

In Fig. 1, it will be noted that the dash-dot line 42 indicates the line of stitching fed rearwardly by the feed-dog from the position of the sewing needle which produces the stitching. It is in respect of this line that it is desired to adjust the pinking ring so as to vary the lateral range of the pinked edge from the sewing.

To-achieve this end, the outer periphery of thecarrier I1 is toothed or milled at 43, and I mount on the base-platea manually operated pinion 44 the teeth of which are in mesh with the teeth of the carrier. The carrier is normally locked by a locking nut 45. By releasing .this locking nut and turning the pinion, the carrier may be turned to that position in which the eccentrically mounted pinking ring will function to trim the -work at the desired lateral range or distance from the line of stitching. Naturally in this arrangement, the lateral range or distance of the trimmed edge from the line of stitching is limited by the eccentric throw of the carrier.

'I'he top of the structure is closed by a coverplate 45 attached to the canier by screw pins 41 which pass through slots 41' in the disc. The means for pressing the work downwardly upon the teeth of the pinking ring comprises a rotatable roller 48 carried by an arm 49 projecting from a rock shaft 50 which is mounted in bracket for rocking movement under pressure of the material on roller 48. Such movement of the rock shaft 50 is controlled by an'adjustable device 52 similar to that disclosed in my prior application, above identified, for the purpose of regulating the pressure of roller 48 upon the material. Preferably and as shown the face of the miler 48 in an axial direction is of sufficient e1;- tent to accommodate a Isubstantial adjustment of the Vpinking ring from the sewing line. The bracket 5| is also adjustable upon thebase plate in' ordertofposition the roller relative t0 the cutter teeth 21,`said bracket being provided with elongated slots 53 and thumb screws 54.

In the form of construction shown in Figs. 4 to '1 inclusive, provision is made for operating the carrier and the pinking ring together by power means in order to produce on fabric as 55 an undulating pinked edge 58 laterally from a line of stitching 51. In this construction, 58 represents the base plate, 58 the feed dog, 60 the fed line of stitching, 6| the carrier,y and 62 the eccentrically mounted pinking ring. Power is illustrated as taken from the rock shaft 63 which may form part of the usual feed mechanism of the sewing machine.

The pinking ring is intermittently operated from the rock shaft 83 through vertical shaft 54, intermittent clutch 55', feed bar 66, ball joint 81, link 68, ball joint 68 and feed arm 18 which is connected with the rock shaft. The carrier is operated with the pinking ring, from the said vrock shaft 83 through pinion 1 I, its vertical shaft 12, intermittent clutch 13, feed arm 14 and feed bar which is connected with the rock shaft. Reverse movement or back lash of the driven portion of the clutch 85 is prevented by the clutch part 16. Similarly, a clutch part 11 prevents any reverse movement of the driven portion of the' intermittent clutch 13. The clutch part -18 is held in a stationary position by the horizontally extending arm 16 having a bifurcated end to receive the ilxed pin 16a extending downwardly from the base 58.

The part 11 comprises a housing with an arm 18 slidable in an opening 18 in the base plate and in which the shaft of pinion 1| is journaled; and this housing with its associated parts is movable toward and away from the carrier sufciently to engage and disengage the pinion with the peripheral teeth of the carrier. The means for moving the pinion comprises a lever 80 which embraces the shaft of the pinion and is mounted on a pivot stud 8| adjacent the locking tooth 82 at one end thereof. Said lever 88 at its opposite end has a finger-engaging boss 83 and a pointer 84. When the pinion is engaged with the carrier, the pointer indicates the on or driving position and the locking tooth 82 is out of engagement with the carrier. with the pinion Tl in engagement with the carrier, the latter element will be driven from the rock shaft, simultaneously with the pinking ring and in synchronism therewith. When the pinion is disengaged from the carrier, the pointer indicates the off position and the locking tooth 82 willvbe engaged with the carrier, locking the carrier against rotary movement. A locking pin I5 is associated with the boss of the lever' and is engageable with suitable keepers in the base plate, whereby releasably to lock the lever in both its on" and oif" positions.

'I'his embodimentof my invention is essentially characterized by the novel method which consists in progressively feeding the fabric in a rectilinear path in tangential relation to the cutter, rotating in a plane parallel to the plane of the fabric. while forcibly pressing the fabric upon the cutter/teeth, and, concurrently with the rotation of the cutter, imparting a relative lateral movement between the cutter and fabric with respect to the line of feed. Thus the pinking cuts .will extend in a wavy or undulating line, symmetrically spaced from the seam.

As clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the pressure roller 88 is', in its axial direction, of a length to exert pressure peripherailyl upon the upstanding teeth `of the pinking ring in any position of the pinking ring throughout the range ofthe eccentric throw of the carrier. The pressure roller is preferably tapered in an axial direction, from its outer end toward its inner end, as shown. It is carried by an arm 81 secured to the rock shaft 88 which is mounted upon bracket 89 upon the lbase plate. 'Ihe rock shaft is adjustably controlled by the pressure regulating plate 90. For the sewing and pinking operations, the work is preferably passed through a' customary or approved folder-guide 9| which is suitably mounted upon the base plate.

The work is passed to the feed dog and stitching mechanism to move along the feed line 60 in the usual way, with the ,edge or edges'to be pinked seized between the pressure roller and the pinking ring. If it is desired to produce a pinked undulating edge, it is onlynecessary to see that the pinion 1| is' in mesh with the carrier. On the other hand, if it is desired to produce 'a straight pinked edge, the pinion is moved out of mesh with the carrier after the carrier has been adjusted to that position in which the pinking ring will operate laterally at a predetermined distance from the line of stitching.

While I have illustrated and described the preferred forms ofconstruction for carrying my invention into effect, these are capablel of variation and modification without departing from the spirit of the invention. I, therefore, do not wish to be limited to the precise details of construction set forth but desire to avail myself of such variations and modification as come within the scope of the appended claims.

' Iclaim:

1.I In a pinking device', the combination of a carrier having rotary movement, and a rotatable pinking member eccentrically mounted on the carrier, and means for locking the carrier against rotation'when the pinking member is to be rotated.

2. In a pinking device, the combination of la supporthaving a throat portion for feeding and sewing mechanism, a carrier rotatably mounted on the support at one side of the throat portion, a pinking element eccentrically mounted on the `carrier, said carrier through rotative movement shaft, a clutch connected with the shaft for operation thereby, a pinking ring intermittently operated by the clutch, a carrier rotatably mountedl in the support in eccentric relation vto the shaft 'andin which said clutch and ring are arranged for operation, means associated with the support vfor adjusting the carrier, and means for locking the carrier in adjusted position. i 5. In a pinking device, a clutch, a pinking ring I .surrounding the clutch and operated thereby, a

. shaft for actuating the clutch, a .support having .a throat plate for sewing operations, a carrier on the support, disposed to revolve adjacent .said throat plate and operatively supporting said clutch and pinking ring in eccentric relation to the carrier axis, said carrier being adapted when revolved to vary the position oi.' the pinking 'ring with respect to said throat plate.

. I3 6. In a pinking device, the combination with a base having a throat portion for sewing operasaid throat part, a pinking member eccentrically mounted in the carrier and movable therebyso as to vary its position with respect to the throat part accordingly `as the position of the carrier is varied, a pressure device for applying pressure upon the pinking member, and means upon the base adjustably supporting the pressure applying device to vary its position in correspondence with variation in the position of the pinking element.

8. A pinking device 'comprising a base, a throat part, a pinking ring, means on the base directly coactingwith and supporting thering for rotation in a horizontal plane, means for adjusting said supporting means to vary the position of the ring with respect to the throat part, and means lfor rotating the ring.

9. A pinking-device comprising a base, agrotary pinking ring, a rotary adjusting member for the ring, and means for simultaneously and independently rotating the ring and member, said member being operatively mounted on the base to vary the position of the ring with respect to the material being pinked. y

10. A pinking device comprising a base, a ro- `tary pinking ring, a rotary adjusting member for the ring, power means, transmission operated position of the ring with respect to the material' being pinked, and manually operated means for controlling the' disconnectible part.

11. A pinking device having a rotary support for the 'pinking means and a driving member for engaging and disengaging the support, in combination with an operating lever for controlling the engagement and disengagement of the driving ymember and having means for locking the support, only, when the driving member is in disengaged position.

l12. A pinking device having a rotary pinking member, a rotary support for said member, a source of power, transmission means for rotating the'member `from the source of power, transmission means for rotating the support from the source of power, said last transmission means including a shiftable transmission part, and locking means, automatically operated when said part is shifted to an inoperativeposition, to lock said support against rotation.

13. A pinking device comprising an endless rotary pinking` ring, a rotary carrier in which the ring is eccentrically mounted `to `rotate in any position of the carrier, means for simultaneously i a hub-.portion in said opening and accommodating said shaft, and a pinking ring supported by the carrier and rotated from said shaft.

15. In a pinking device, the combination with a feed mechanism having to and fro movement and a shaft actuated thereby, of a base, a carrier rotatably mounted on the base having a hub-portion accommodating said shaft, a pawl plate on the carrier secured to and actuated by said shaft and carrying a plurality of pawls, a pinking ring eccentrically mounted on the carrier and intermittently rotated by said pawls,'and means for rotating said carrier, to variably position said pinking ring in respect to the work.

16. In a pinking device, the combination of a pinking ring and carrier therefor mounted for relative eccentric rotation, a shaft for actuating the pinking ring, a'pinion for actuating the carrier, feed mechanism having to and IroA movement, transmission including an intermittent clutch for operating said shaft from said feed mechanism, transmission including an intermittent clutch for operating said pinion from said feed mechanism, and means mounting said pinion permitting it to be moved laterally toward and away from said carrier for engagement and disengagement, respectively, therewith.

17. In a trimming device, two independently rotatable members having coacting means, whereby relative rotation of said members imparts a concurrent planetary movement to one of said members, said latter member having trimming means, and power operated driving meansior each of said members.

18. In a trimming device, two independently rotatable members having coacting means, whereby relative rotation of said members imparts a concurrent planetary movement to one of said members, said latter member having trimming means, power operated driving means for each of said members, and means ior rendering the driving means for the other member inoperative and locking said member in a stationary position.

19. In a trimming device, a trimming member, an adjusting member'therefor, means for mounting said members to rotate in a common plane, and means operatively controlled by the adjusting member for imparting a planetary bodily movement to said trimming member.

20. In a. trimming device, a trimming member, an adjusting member therefor, means for mounttrimmed.

22. In a trimming device, a rotary cutter, and means for bodily shifting said cutter in its plane of rotation to position the same for eiective operation with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed, said means including a rotary member eccentrically connected with said cutter.

23. In a trimming device, a-rotary cutter, a rotary member eccentrically connected with said cutter for shifting the cutter in its plane of rotation to position the same for. effective operation with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed, means for intermittently rotating said trimmed.

cutter, and means for concurrently imparting rotation to said member.

24. In a trimming device, a rotary cutter, and means for bodily shifting said cutter in its plane of rotation to position the same for eiective operation with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed, said means including an independently rotatable member, eccentrically associated with said cutter and directly coacting therewith.

25. In a trimming dvice, a rotary cutter, means for bodily shifting said cutter in its plane of rotation to position the same for efiective operation with respect to a selected part of Vthe work being trimmed, said means including an independently rotatable member, eccentrically associated with said cutter and directly coacting therewith, and operator controlled means for optionally, imparting rotation to said member, or locking the same in a stationary position relative to the cutter.

26. In a trimming device, a cutter mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane, means for rotating said cutter, and means for imparting a planetary bodily movement to said cutter, to vary the position of eiective operation of said cutter with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed.

27. In a trimming device, a cutter mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane, means for rotating said cutter, and concurrently operating means for imparting bi-directional planetary bodily movements to said cutter, to continuously vary the position of effective operation of said cutter with respect to a selected part of the work being 28. In a trimming device, a cutter mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane, means for rotating said cutter, and relatively adjustable means peripherally coacting with said cutter to impart a planetaryv bodily movement thereto and vary the position of eiective operation of said cutter with respect to a selected part of the Work being trimmed.

29. In a trimming device, a cutter mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane, means for rotating said cutter, land relatively adjustable means mounted in circumscribing, directly coacting relation with said cutter, to impart a planetary bodily movement thereto and vary the position of effective operation'of said cutter with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed.

30. In a trimming device, a cutter, an adjustable member, means for mounting said cutter and lmember for relative coacting rotation in eccentrically related orbits, means for rotating the cutter, and means for rotating said adjustable member to position said cutter for eiective operation with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed.

31. In a trimming device, a cutter, an adjustable member, means for mounting said cutter and member for relative coacting rotation in eccentrically related orbits, means for rotating the cutter, and operator controlled means for opticnally imparting rotation to said adjusting member or to lock said member' in an adjusted position relative to the cutter.

32. In a trimming device, a rotatable cutter having an annular series of cutting teeth, and means coacting with the cutter and controllable at the will of the operator to variably shift the path of operation of the cutter teeth with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed.

33. In a trimming device, a rotatable cutter concurrently with the rotation-of the cutter, ,con-

tinuously shift said operating path of the cutter teeth with respect to a selected part of the work being trimmed.

34. The method of edge pinking fabrics which consists in progressively feeding the fabric in a rectilinear path, with an edge thereof in tangential relation to a circular cutter rotating in a plane parallel to the plane of the fabric and in contact with an annular series of cutting teeth on said cutter, and, concurrently with the rotation of the cutter, imparting relative shifting movement between said cutter and fabric laterally with respect to the feed path of the fabric, to thereby produce an undulating pinked edge on the fabric.

35. The method of edge pinking fabrics which consists in progressively feeding the fabric in a rectilinear path, with an edge thereof in tangential relation to` a circular cutter rotating in a plane parallel to the plane of the fabric and in superimposed contact with certain of an annular series of cutting teeth on the upper face of said cutter, forcibly pressing the fabric upon said teeth, and, concurrently with the rotation of the cutter, imparting relative shifting movement betweenv said cutter and fabric laterally with respect to the feed path of the fabric, to thereby produce an undulating pinked edge on the fabric.

36. The method of edge pinking fabrics which consists in progressively feeding the fabric in a rectilinear path, with an edge thereof in tangential relation to a circular cutter rotating in aV plane parallel to the plane of the fabric and in contact with an annular series of cutting teethon said cutter, and, concurrently with the rotation ofthe cutter, bodily shifting said cutter laterally with respect to the feed path of the fabric, to thereby produce a pinked edge of desired design on the fabric.

37. The method of edge pinking fabrics which consists in progressively feeding the fabric in a. rectilinear path, with an edge thereof in tangential relation to a circular cutter rotating in a plane parallel to the plane of the fabric, and in superimposed contact with certain of an annular series of cutting teeth on the upper face of said cutter,

forcibly pressing the fabric upon said teeth, and,

concurrently with the rotation of the cutter bodily shifting said cutter laterally with respect to the feed path of the fabric, to thereby produce a pinked edge of desired design on the fabric.

VICTOR J. SIGODA. 

